The first stage in setting up an sucessful aquarium is choosing its location. The aquarium should be positioned away from direct sunlight (to reduce aglae & excessive temperature) and away from direct sources of heat (radiators & heaters). I recommend using a aquarium stand or cabinent, as other bookcases & cupboards are unlikey to withstand the weight of a completely filled aquariums.

Polysterene sheet (tiles) should be used between the aquarium & the stand or cabinent, to prevent the base of the aquarium from cracking. This is not required for aquariums that already have polysterene affixed to the base. Its wise to try & purchase the biggest aquarium you can afford, as some people believe that the larger the aquarium the easier it is to maintain.

Before putting the aquarium in position the picture backing should be affixed the the outside of the back of the aquarium using double sided or sticky tape.

The gravel should be thoughly rinsed before putting into the aquarium. The more time you spend the clearer the water will be when you fill the tank. The gravel can now be put in position, but if you are using an undergravel filter rembember to put this in position before the gravel!

If you are going to include rocks, stone, & wood into your aquarium now's the time to add them. It's wise to rinse rocks & stones under a running tap. If you are adding wood, this should be soaked (at least overnight) to reduce colouring of the water when added to the aquaruim.

Adding the Electrics

All electrical items, pumps, lights & heaters should be supplied with a mains plug already fitted. These can be fitted to a cable tidy to reduce the number of mains sockets required. Always double check the connections before applying any power.

Now position the pump & heater in the aquarium. The heater should be positioned in the aquarium in an area with good water flow & ensure that the water level reaches the minimum mark on the heater. Do not switch the electric on yet!

Add the water gently to prevent too much disturbance of the gravel. Don't fill the water right to the top as we've still got to add the plants.

The dechlorinator or tap water conditioning solution should now be added as per the manufacturers recomendations, you can calculate the volume of your tank .

Now switch the electrics on to the heater & pump/filter. Using a thermometer set the temperature to 24 degrees C/75 degrees F (for tropical or marine). Once the temperature has stablised add the plants in the require positions and top up the water.

Fit the light tube into the aquarium cover and place onto the aquarium. A condesation tray or glass can be placed between the tank & lid to reduce water evaporation.

Filter supplements can now be added to the water - these boost the maturing process of the filter. Water should now be tested for Ammonia, Nitrite, & Nitrate using testing kits . Plenty of time should be given to allow the filter to mature before adding any fish.

Once the Ammonia, Nitrite, & Nitrate levels have reduced to a minimum your first fish can now be added. I suggest adding a few zebra danios first, these are fairly cheap and are tolerant of quite high toxin levels. After purchasing the fish leave them in the bag and float in the tank for at least 30 minutes before releasing the fish. Turn the light off when floating the bag in the tank to reduce stress. Leaving the light off a few hours after releasing the fish can also reduce stress.

Remember to check the water quality every 1-2 weeks when adding new fish and wait for levels to return to a minimum before adding any more fish.

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